Searching for Enigmas It's everywhere, it's nowhere, it's dancing in three-quarter time EN-ROUTE TO PULAU VALSE PISANG, Indonesia Some people with stardust in their eyes and too much red wine in their veins spend their lives searching for Atlantis or Eldorado. Other adventurers windsurf across the Pacific. Yet other men and women seek an elusive metaphor, like Peter Mathiessen’s snow leopard. I have a simpler quest. I’m looking for “Waltzing Banana Island.” “Waltzing Banana Island,”...