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Published in Golf Vacations WINE, GOLF AND A HISTORIC SETTING
by Paul Spencer Sochaczewski © 1999
CAPETOWN, South Africa
"This is one of the most beautiful encounters we have ever had with a country. Thank you for making us feel so at home," Ms Shields wrote. Andre Agassi added: "Truly a magical place, thank you for a beautiful memory." Just 20 minutes from Capetown, and minutes from the white sand beaches of False Bay, Steenberg is a five star hotel and a national monument - the site of the Cape's first winery and the first land grant given to a woman. The golf course, created by Peter Matkovitch, designer of Zimbabwe's fabled Leopard Rock course, is young, with plenty of promise. The bent grass layout is divided into four distinct areas. The first six holes meander through gentle, manicured parkland, which gives way to a wetlands area where a mountain stream cascades into reed-fringed natural ponds. The back nine features Cape heathland rich in indigenous Cape ericas, proteas and reeds, followed by pine wastelands where natural rolling fairways are linked by sand and grasses to the foot of the pine forest. The round is completed under the splendour of stately oaks. You'll probably see guinea fowls, herons and unusual Cape birds. The par 3 seventh hole, at 161 meters, is a delight. The elephant's head mountain looms over the golfer. The green is an island completely surrounded by a sand trap. And surrounding the bunker from 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock is a pond, which in turn is surrounded by a profusion of Cape flora. The par 5 12th, at 467 meters, is uphill to an undulating green. But what makes this hole special is the large waste bunker that cut across the fairway and extends all the way to the green on the left side of the fairway. It takes a long, straight drive to clear the waste bunker. If you land in it, you can ground your club without penalty. My favorite hole is the par 3 17th, a true garden hole. This is the highest point on the course, the only place from where you can see False Bay. The green is protected by vineyards on the right, with a stream and forest in front and on the sides. Steenberg follows the American tradition of developing home sites on the course. All 210 home sites were sold within the first four months they went on the market. Unlike other South African residential golf communities, builders at Steenberg are subject to strict design constraints that maintain Cape architectural traditions. The golf club belongs to the homeowners, and is open only to the 275 members, their guests, and guests at the Steenberg Country Hotel. Steenberg, which opened as a hotel only in 1996, is a homestead of several thatched roof buildings converted into 19 luxury rooms, each named after one of the estate's wines -- Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Nebbiolo. Every corner is filled old prints and documents, antiques, and squirrels scamper among the huge oak trees in the garden. It's all white, prim, and luxurious. Architectural fans will count 14 styles of Cape Dutch gables. A bell in the courtyard is one reminder that things at Steenberg were not always as harmonious as they are now - this is the bell that was used to call the slaves. Consider the history of Steenberg as you sip a chardonnay in the warm dining room, with stained oak beamed ceilings, chandeliers and lots of typical Cape brass fittings. Steenberg (Stone Mountain) is the site of the first land grant made in the Constantia Valley to Catharina Ustings Ras by Governor Simon van der Stel in 1682. Catherina Ustings arrived in the Cape in 1662, a 22 year old widow from Lubeck on the Baltic coast of Germany. Following a difficult sea voyage from Europe, she landed just ten years after Jan van Riebeeck's founding of the Tavern of the Sea, and considered it wise to get herself safely married as soon as possible. Her choice of husband was Hans Ras, a former soldier who had become a free burgher. On their wedding day the wagon drivers conveying the married couple and the guests home from church decided to race to the reception. The wagons collided and the incensed bridegroom received a knife in the ribs while brawling with the drunk drivers. His wife pulled the knife out of her husband; he recovered to father several children before he was killed by a lion. Catherina married again but her new husband was murdered by one of the tribesmen. Husband number four was trampled by an elephant. She then selected Matthys Michelse as number five. By that time she had become the part-time mistress of Simon van der Stel and she persuaded the governor to grant her the farm she named Swaaneweide (feeding place of swans). In 1682 they built their first house on this farm. Several years later, when the commisioner, Baron van Rheede tot Drakenstein, rode on inspection in the region, he and his party lunched with her, finding the food excellent but having some views about the lady. "She rides bare-back like an Indian," the baron wrote, "and her children resemble Brazilian cannibals." Well, the food is still excellent. Chef Garth Almazan, just 24 and already one of the leading chefs in the country, produces old style cooking with modern touches. His seafood wok with tempura vegetables is a fine way to begin a meal. For a main course you might try the grilled kudu filet marinated in Merlot, and served with red onion marmalade and bacon. Or have a bit of Asia with the spicy fried prawns in pepper sauce, coriander and pineapple with crispy noodles. The grilled ostrich filet with a green pepercorn crust was served on goats cheese ravioli with sautéed broccoli and a brandy cream sauce. Try the local fish, kinglip Malay style cooked with a curry crust and garnished with cucumber, tomato and a fennel yoghurt. For dessert indulge in Cape brandy pudding, or pumpkin meringue pie. Or opt for the amarula crème brulee, made from the fruit which elephants gorge on, to the point that the fruit ferments in their stomachs, resulting in very drunk pachyderms. For breakfast enjoy a Natal dropped scone with grilled bananas, pineapple and golden syrup, or Cape smoked salmon with scrambled eggs.
Vanessa Weyers Hotel rates, per room, high season October-April:
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